Best Shoes, Bags, & Accessories

MILAN — Footwear and accessories designers at Milan Fashion Week were unified in their approach to spring 2026: To spread joy in chaotic times.

Make no mistake, there was plenty to be worried about: punishing tariffs and department store turmoil in the U.S., anxiety over two wars — and general consumer malaise.

But the uncertain climate only pushed brands to be more creative this season, with plenty of color, alluring details and an intense focus on Made in Italy craftsmanship.

The WWD and FN teams scoured the city for all the top shoes, bags, hats and sunglasses. Here is our extensive recap.

Gianvito Rossi teamed up with his daughter, Sofia, on an elegant new stiletto heel this season, aptly named after her. It shines brightest on three dramatic designs inspired by the glamour of the sea — including a mule in rainbow metallic leather that evokes the iridescent layers of seashells. “The mule is the modern way to think about the sandal,” said the veteran designer during a walkthrough. A hand-embroidered sandal with pearls and sequins and another look with satin and tulle petals also illustrate the designer’s focus on couture-like craftsmanship. Sultry summer colors like aloe green, freesia and rose gold, along with shiny metallic leathers, are prominent across the evening assortment. The Sofia heel is also a highlight of the designer’s day styles, as seen on d’Orsay pumps, mules and booties. Designed for city living, the color palette veers to black, white and brown. From the city to the desert, the last part of the collection focuses on a defining motif: braided threading with metallic accents. And the designer’s clog, with its oversized metal studs, is also a standout.

For Sandra Choi, spending time in the garden at her Somerset, England, home is one of her greatest joys. So, it made sense to turn Jimmy Choo’s Milan Fashion Week presentation space into a secret garden of sorts. Oversized floral sculptures (crafted by a Milanese artist and inspired by Choi’s own peonies) and natural flora surrounded the shoes and bags. “This collection is about femininity and desirability. I wanted to take some of the ingredients close to Jimmy Choo and give them another layer,” Choi said. Lace was dominant this season and evoked the floral patterns in nature. It was used on pretty pumps and as a panel on suede ballerina sneakers, giving the athletic style an elegant feel. Lace showed up again on a new iteration of the Cinch bag, and as a 3D corsage on a slingback. Material play was also evident in a new soft suede printed with a trompe l’oeil of denim.

Giuseppe Zanotti has a knack for making his heritage styles look cool and of the moment. Take, for example, the “Slim” fishbone sandal — with its signature jeweled spine — which was revived with a few small updates. (You might remember it from a memorable Samantha Jones scene in the first “Sex and the City” movie.) “With my time machine, I go back to the past, and study it to understand the value of it in a contemporary way — and then I come back to the future,” Zanotti said. Of course, the designer has always stayed true to his DNA. This season, he set out to create another classic with the Brivido sandal, characterized with its squared toe, elongated shape and conical heel. Jewelry shoes, always a cornerstone of the designer’s collections, were abundant — embellishment decorated grosgrain, leather and satin designs. For day, a new interpretation of a ballerina style got a little lift with a three-centimeter heel, and minimalist silhouettes popped in a series of bright hues, including orange, red, azure and yellow.

Edgardo Osorio is building Aquazzura into a full-fledged lifestyle brand. For spring, the designer unveiled a larger bag assortment and more accessories, from charms to hats. Across the footwear collection, his aim was to emphasize craftsmanship and special details during an era when consumers are looking for something special. “People come to us for the essentials, but we also have this niche of very emotional, very happy product,” he said. “It’s nice to see the brand growing all different categories, from things that are simple to things that are very elaborate.”

Art has been an endless source of inspiration for Paul Andrew throughout his career. For his second Sergio Rossi collection, the designer teamed up with British abstract artist Richard Zinon, who created an installation of canvases, turning Sergio Rossi’s showroom into an art gallery for the day. “The paintings are of massive scale, and the shoes are taking inspiration from Richard’s extraordinary gestural brushstrokes,” Andrew told WWD in a preview. Andrew’s Serpentine cutout wedge was inspired by Zaha Hadid’s “Elastika.” Another standout style had an elongated pointed nipped toe — it was crafted in carbon fiber and galvanized in a car factory. “These curvaceous, feminine forms and sinuous lines are coming from the artwork in an abstract way,” Andrew said. And one look was crafted from wood that was repurposed from a fallen forest in the northern part of Milan, then combined with a galvanized chrome heel and embossed ostrich.

As Hogan gears up for its 40th anniversary in 2026, the Italian brand wanted to infuse the youthful spirit of Milanese warm-weather experiences — refreshing fountains, gelato, faded basketball courts, day-to-night café culture — into its spring collection. The Hogan Athletic, a rework of the iconic sprinter sneaker, fit in well with the slim styles that are trending across the market. Tapping into the skate resurgence, the brand also offered up a new cupsole sneaker — and boat shoes and loafers were among the other key styles. On the bag front, the versatile Hogan Script Address logo bag went mini. And new for the season, the brand presented a family of grainy leather and lightweight suede flap bags — in small and mini styles and sizes — with the signature H fastener. While the collection celebrated the Italian summer, Andrea Della Valle, vice chairman of Hogan parent Tod’s SpA, also had America on his mind. He is scouting spaces for a Hogan flagship, with plans to open by the back half of next year.

It was hard not to smile when arriving at Casadei’s joyful spring 2026 presentation, a celebration of the Italian summer complete with the “Bellissimo Flower Bar.” The brand unveiled its capsule with ready-to-wear talent Alessandro Enriquez, and the designer’s poppy prints decorated the entire showroom, from the walls to the furniture to the shoe boxes. Together, Enriquez and Cesare Casadei offered up new takes on the Blade heel, embellished ballerinas and sneakers. A strawberry print was the main theme here. In the main collection, an intricate strappy sandal with a criss-cross effect and bejeweled toe ring was a standout and the brand showed off its techy side with a futuristic capsule exploring 3D design. A braided leather assortment was also a highlight.

When it works, it works. That’s why Paris Texas founder Annamaria Brivio continued to evolve her bestselling Lidia style with fresh takes, like spring’s thong version. The bestselling mule also got some colorful updates in polished patent. Wedges are popping up in many collections this season, and Paris Texas’s Nina lace-up thong sandal, inspired by Y2K lingerie, shines with its galvanized wedge heel in color gradients. Another standout is the new ’70s-inspired Marisol platform clog, which is surprisingly lightweight.

When it comes to crystal, René Caovilla has no limits. For spring 2026, the brand upped the glam factor again, paying tribute to Indian culture and craftsmanship ahead of its March 2026 flagship opening in New Delhi. The Jahanara chandelier sandal, along with two slingback versions and an embroidered pump, were inspired by Indian palaces and golden sunsets. Crystal flower embellishments were used prominently in other styles, bringing sparkle to pastel mules, slingbacks, kitten heels and more.

Santoni, which turned 50 this year, commissioned artist Lorenzo Vitturi for a special presentation installation to showcase its craftsmanship and savoir-faire. Through sculpture and imagery, the creative took Santoni’s iconic leathers and cut, stitched, molded and assembled them together with blown Murano glass, Venetian beads and Peruvian wool. It was a fitting backdrop for the collection, with standouts including an open-toe mule sandal in metallic bronze napa leather with intreccio weaving. “This is totally hand-woven around the last. It is very special and unique,” said executive chairman Giuseppe Santoni. Another mule, in hand-mirrored silver leather, glittered in iridescent sequins. Silver also gave some shine to the new mini Chapelier shopper with tonal twin leather handles.

While several brands were inspired by the Italian summer this season, Stuart Weitzman was in a New York state of mind. Looking to build on the success of its Vinnie boots, the brand expanded the collection into sculptural sandals and wedges for spring — in hues like citrine, cove blue and sunset pink. Ambassadors Emma Chamberlain and Ashley Graham stopped by the presentation, Weitzman’s first as part of the Caleres family.

Sustainable handbag label Themoirè continues to support local artisans around the world. For fashion week, it unveiled the fifth chapter of its “Together With Themoirè,” which focuses on Borneo, Malaysia. The region’s deep commitment to biodiversity and artisanal traditions attracted the brand. Specifically, Themoirè teamed up with Tanoti, a social enterprise dedicated to traditional weaving techniques. The group brings together more than 500 artisans, mostly women, to help them create economic independence. The project focused on rattan, a natural, renewable and biodegradable material typical of Borneo. Together with local artisans, three weaving techniques with natural dyes were developed. Those techniques were applied to the brand’s iconic bags, including the Bios and the Bios Medium. And the Taleo Shopper bag was unveiled as part of the collaboration.

With their day-focused AGL brand, the sisters continued to experiment with transparency, as seen on a trio of styles: a see-through white sneaker, an open-toe sandal boot with a graphic structure and an over-the-knee open-toe boot set on a tapered heel. Woven styles also played prominently, and the brand used a pulled thread technique to create a puff effect on sandals and mules. They also unveiled interesting takes on ballet flats — like a pointed-toe version in neon-colored ostrich leather.

Natural raffia and other artisanal materials played a starring role in the Serena Uziyel collection, inspired by the Mediterranean coast. Shoulder bags were fashioned in raffia and embellished with lyra embroidery. The Kibele minimalist sandal — with the Turkish designer’s signature hand-braided details — stood out.

“My best friend says I use my collection as a psychologist instead of therapy,” joked Benedetta Bruzziches, who has always played by her own rules. Bruzziches doesn’t subscribe to seasons, but she touted three main bags — all named after women she admires — at her presentation: the Vitty, a crystal-embellished shoulder bag; the Mame everyday tote bag; and the Elif shoulder bag.

Eveningwear came into focus for Italian designer Barbara Borghini, who wants her Gia Borghini customer to have a little more fun — from day to night. She introduced the “Opera Capsule,” four styles in both leather and satin, decked out in details such as feathers. (The capsule is a collaboration with Paris-based fashion insider Pirrie Wright.) A second tie-up this season, with Los Angeles-based creative Fai Khadra, also plays up satin and feathers in modern silhouettes.

After revealing a shift to softer designs in a WWD interview this summer, Valextra illuminated its fresh approach at its “Valextra Anatomy: A Study of Movement” presentation. “We wanted to bring a little more femininity and emotion to the brand,” said chief executive officer Xavier Rougeaux. He compared Valextra’s sensibility to the city of Milan, with the rigidity and austerity of its facades and opulent interiors. To that end, material innovation included the Senso, an elevated nubuck suede, and the Sublime leather, which were key elements of the new Iside Editor handbag, one of the key styles of the season. The other, the Iside Tin handbag, a more compact version of the original, was named after the way the Milanese refer to something small. Regenerated nylon was also incorporated across the Assoluto totes, backpacks and gym bags.

Pollini is sticking with its quiet luxury formula. The platform sandal, one of the brand’s best-known styles, was presented in several seasonal versions, including glossy patent lambskin and suede. Suede slip-ons were finished with a crochet effect. Leather created an interplay of 3D and cutout details on new double-strap sandals. The Fence shoulder bag went mini and got some colorful updates, even a python print version.  

Aera‘s spring collection — inspired by the sun-drenched flowers of Liguria — brightened up a rainy evening in Milan. For the first time, Aera introduced its own exclusive print, developed through a hand-painted watercolor motif and transposed onto eco-satin.

As Rodo gears up to celebrate its 70th anniversary in 2026, it’s also marking another big milestone — the first solo footwear collection designed by third-generation family member Giorgio Dori. For spring, the designer kept the brand’s signature materials, wicker and rattan, at the forefront — mixing them with leather details on modern silhouettes like pointy-toe pumps or flat sandals. Dori also launched a line of casual sneakers that maintained a sophisticated vibe. Both shoes and bags also got some spring-appropriate color updates in fuchsia, amber and mint.

There’s no better made-in-Italy combination than shoes and gelato. Fratelli Rossetti paid homage to the Italian summer with an immersive presentation — the ice cream flavors cleverly matched the shades of the collection. The Brera loafer once again took center stage, this time presented as a ballerina style made of woven straw and a new slipper version. The brand’s signature weaves got a touch of gold to add glimmer. And leather C, applied with a threading technique, added another element to loafers, heeled sandals and flip-flops.

The slip-on sneaker craze continues, and Geox wants a bigger piece of the pie. After debuting its “Fast-in” system in February, the brand is again focusing on the concept for spring 2026, integrating it into new hues of the Spherica Plus, most notably pistachio green, lilac and indigo. The technology was also added to other key styles. And the brand tapped into its archives for the return of the Snake Original sneaker. First introduced in 2006, it’s now refashioned with more feminine styling. Another pared-back sneaker, Blue Touch, also made its debut. The dressier part of the collection featured sandals, slingbacks and a classic version boat shoe.

Premiata has been investing more heavily in research and development — and along the way, it found some prime examples of innovation within in its own archives. For example, it revived a 2003 style, a sandal built on a heeled moccasin. Comfort elements taken from its sneakers are also being incorporated into the broader collection. Slingbacks with interesting textures and embellished mules were among the highlights.

To mark its 10th anniversary, Flower Mountain held a bash at its just-opened flagship on Milan’s Via Durini. The minimal, open space is designed with burnt wood finishes and Japanese artwork that pay tribute to its heritage. For fashion week, Flower Mountain also presented a capsule collection with five iconic styles that highlight its technical performance and outdoor roots. New for the season was the Pu-erh, inspired by the Chinese fermented tea, which symbolizes patience, depth and transformation. It mirrored the look of a 1980s running silhouette.

The Civic Aquarium of Milan was an apt setting for Coccinelle‘s collection, which paid tribute to the Ama, an ancient community of Japanese female divers known as “women of the sea.” Bag shapes took cues from shells, fishing baskets and Japanese furoshiki, traditional wrapping cloths. As Coccinelle looks to expand its footwear presence, the label experimented with a new heel resembling the shape of a plectrum.

Emerging brand Betzábe is looking to stand out from the luxury pack with its new stacked heel for spring 2026. “We think this is something that’s not in the market and we have it in different combinations and heel heights,” said founder and designer Betzábe González. “This is for the everyday woman who needs to slip on a shoe and go day-to-night.” The heel is featured in several styles and heights across the collection.

Inspired by its menswear heritage, Testoni borrowed from the boys for a key part of its spring women’s shoe lineup. The new “Mannish” collection merged menswear classics with feminine styling. Loafers, lace-ups and drivers all make an appearance. The label’s classic bags continued to dominate the assortment, in new shades of poppy, olive and peacock. The Amedeo shoulder bag, named after the brand’s founder, came in a mini version for the first time.

The Bridge once again hosted a fashion week party in its Milan digs, with the set designed to take guests on an imaginary journey along the Tyrrhenian coast. The trapezoidal Laura bag — structured yet flexible — was the key silhouette of the season. A functional zipper, mounted diagonally along the side, emphasized easy access. And an intricate handle was hand-woven.

Le Silla‘s Uma platform slingback pump, crafted in silk satin or patent leather, was reimagined for a special capsule with eight hues inspired by different flowers of the garden, including the rose, iris, cornflower and peony, among others. The Uma’s jeweled buckle, also floral-inspired, enveloped the strap, adding an elegant touch. Elsewhere, mesh slingbacks with rose embellishments and pumps adorned with crystal-studded mesh also have a romantic feel — and zebra prints spice up new stiletto sandals.

The Dagger stiletto heel was in the spotlight at Paciotti once again as the label doubles down on its heritage. “Our idea is to go back to the DNA of the brand. It’s a strong way to reinforce who we are,” said Marco Calcinaro, chief executive officer of Paciotti SpA, citing the company’s nearly 80-year history. “We want to express our personality with the product.”

Sahakar Group might be best known for its construction and logistics prowess in India. But now its owners, the Agrawal family, are making a play for Italian fashion with Christopher, a made-in-Italy accessories line of footwear, bags, small leather goods, scarves, sunglasses and fragrances. “The concept is a chic classic collection, with a touch of art,” said cofounder Karan Agrawal, who noted that fashion has always been one of his father’s passions. After being avid consumers of luxury brands, the family knew establishing the business in Milan would help give it credibility. One of the family’s first acts was to open a flagship on Via Della Spiga this summer.

After building a strong following with its versatile Dua bag, Gianni Chiarini made a splash with a new silhouette, the Sienna. The bucket bag is offered in three sizes — maxi, medium, and mini — and comes in two core materials, bubble double leather, the brand’s signature, and suede. The brand has high hopes for it to become the next brand icon.

The pointed-toe Mario Valentino Corine slingback pump combines soft mesh and delicate kidskin leather, creating lightness and movement. Colorblocking is the big story for Mario Valentino bags. Meanwhile, Valentino by Mario Valentino shoes range from practical sneakers and moccasins to refined pumps and boots featuring visible stitching.  

Along with its main collection that included the introduction of the new Maro geometric bag with loose napa leather strips knotted on the sides, Serapian displayed iterations of its iconic styles revisited by British designer Bethan Laura Wood. These marked the continuation of the collaboration between the company and the designer, and this time, Wood reimagined the Secret, Mini Secret and Anì bags and the house’s signature Mosaico weaving technique in her signature color palette centered on pastel hues such as azure, pink and ice. “I wanted to reference the clouds, replicate their soft hues and the reflections from the sunlight and the landscape. This collection is based on a combination of Japanese woodblock prints and the colors of the sky, and it was important for me to connect these inspirations with some of Serapian’s signature motifs, creating my own take on the Mosaico and the Stop & Go techniques,” said the designer. 

Borsalino had much news in store at its presentation during Milan Fashion Week. Style-wise, the spring 2026 collection offered intriguing iterations on the Panama or toquilla hat in raffia or straw, including an earthy brown version with a dégradé band and a midnight blue style dotted in golden and copper rounded studs. The natural, summery materials were also plied into perforated bucket hats and cloche designs. At the same time, days ahead of the presentation the storied hatmaker announced a new licensing deal with Swiss company Gamat for the development and manufacturing of Borsalino-branded leather goods, including bags and accessories, as part of its push to embrace new, lifestyle-leaning product categories. “Borsalino is opening a new chapter in its history… to enrich our clients’ wardrobes with pieces designed to accompany everyday life with style and practicality,” said Mauro Baglietto, managing director of Borsalino. The executive also highlighted the launch of a new Borsalino fragrance called White Iris complementing the Black Iris scent introduced last February.

Borbonese took over Milanese restaurant-institution Bice to unveil its spring collection, designed by the in-house design team after the departure of former creative directors Francesca Monaco and Salar Bicheranloo of hip sustainable accessories label TheMoirè. Newly installed chief executive officer Stefano Ferro, who joined a year ago succeeding Alessandro Pescara, said he plans to zero in on the three key pillars of the brand: inherent quality, the signature OP pattern and its link with cinema. The latter inspired the presentation setting, a reproduction of different vignettes and tableau vivants scattered across the rooms of the restaurant, while the pattern decked many of the spring lineup’s new addition. These included the playful Borboletiña butterfly-shaped minibag to be worn on the shoulders, a range beach-ready top-handle bags weaving OP and colorful leather strips, or the rounded Full Moon hobo bag, a new iteration of the signature Luna style.

Sara Battaglia is shifting to a see-now-buy-now model releasing small drop of new products throughout the year. Marking Milan Fashion Week with a weeklong pop-up on Via Matteotti, the designer — a champion and advocate for the fight against female violence — debuted a new iteration of her signature Plissé bucket bag, swathed for the occasion in a lacquer red nuance, the drop’s defining color. Coming with an internal fabric pouch developed in partnership with Dritto Filo, a center against violence with which Battaglia has collaborated before, the bag is styled with a pair of sunglasses — a rounded design and cat-eyed shape — defined by their pleated acetate temples and a reversible plissé caftan dress. A dedicated campaign portrays a model smiling to “foster a positivity while tackling such a serious topic as violence against women,” Battaglia said.

Since relocating to Milan to dedicate herself to her namesake accessories brand, German designer Tina Lutz Morris has occasionally staged presentations during the city’s fashion week. For spring she shared the space with minimalist sneakers brand VOR, founded in 2010 by Andreas Klingseisen and Jörg Rohwer-Kahlman. An advocate of local manufacturing and slow fashion — who sources leather from Spoor-approved German tanneries and manufacturers entirely in the country save for a few Made in Italy styles — Lutz Morris expanded her bag vocabulary with alluring rectangular belt bags, their metal frames covered in pebbled or smooth leather, introduced crocheted beach bags crafted in Madagascar using locally grown raffia and debuted a collab with L.L. Bean comprising canvas tote bags edged in leather.

There’s a new accessories brand on the block for spring 2026. The newly launched label Îacaré, founded by Bolivian entrepreneur and creative director Sarah Maria Gutierrez, made its debut during Milan Fashion Week with a range of exotic bags and small leather goods crafted from caiman leather. The latter — ethically sourced from the founder’s family farm in the Pantanal, Brazil — is plied into sculptural accessories by master artisans in Santa Croce, Italy. Standouts in the seminal collection titled “Origins” included the Blossom Bucket style featuring eight emerald green petal-like panels atop a lamb napa base and the Lotus Bag, its shape inspired by the namesake flower, coming with a bold metallic handle embossed with the pattern of the caiman skin.