Maxine Roeder works on a fashion design with sustainable materials. (Isabella Diaz-Mira | Photo Editor)
Ever walked through the Danforth University Center (DUC) or Olin and seen piles of beads, string, fabrics, pins, and other accessories laying out on a table with someone meticulously weaving apparel? Behind these temporary setups is fifth-year dual-degree student Maxine Roeder. From sustainable fashion to artistic design, Roeder uses her creative talent to support sustainability measures.
Roeder is a student fashion designer focused on making wearable art with sustainable techniques. She recently graduated in the Class of 2024 from the Sam Fox School of Design & Visual Arts and is currently finishing a Biology major in the School of Arts & Sciences. She has produced eight capsule collections, with each containing 6-30 different garments, accumulating University-wide recognition and setting herself apart as a sustainable designer.
Her commitment to sustainability is demonstrated through her use of repurposed materials.
“Sustainability is my design philosophy. I always will look for ways to upcycle things or reuse a lot of materials,” Roeder said.
Roeder began to weave sustainable creations into the picture when she realized her love for the outdoors could be more than just a daily stroll through nature.
“I like to take lots of pictures of formations and stuff … I am very inspired by all the textures,” she said.
Before she was releasing capsule collections or developing her design philosophy, Roeder was a curious young girl growing up in New York City.
“My spark moment was getting calendars of Barbie drawings. They contained [drawings of] Barbie with fancy gowns,” Roeder said. “I then started to make clothes for Barbies and I switched to real people’s clothing when I was 13.”
Since then, her creations have become increasingly complex, thematic, and influenced by conceptual and imaginative modern high fashion.
“Alexander McQueen is one of my favorite designers,” she said. “I love how he takes a specific narrative and makes it into art.”
Featherplight, created in 2024, is one of Roeder’s most well-known capsule collections. It was featured in The Vanilla Issue, a well known online fashion platform; Era Magazine, an LA-based influence magazine; and the Sam Fox School’s 95th Annual Fashion Design Show. The collection is inspired by birds and contrasts their purity with their discomfort. The project seeks to shine a light on the shrinking bird population.
What started as a senior thesis project with only eight pieces transformed into a much larger collection to be featured in a fashion show. Throughout Featherplight, Roeder communicates a narrative of joyfulness to sensitivity, ultimately ending with destruction, all reflecting the decline of birds.
Each capsule collection has a unique name that shines a light on Roeder’s craftsmanship and ability to transcend the viewer.
“I’ll try to think of a title that captures the essence of the collection. For Featherplight, it was literally about the birds and their flight. I try to find creative names.”
Now for Roeder, fashion design is not just a career venture, but also a personal one. For her, it serves as an opportunity to step back from the hecticness of school and do something for personal enjoyment.
“Fashion design is a break. But also I multitask a lot. When I’m watching TV, I’ll work on these projects,” Roeder said. “Other times I’ll just hang out and I find the projects just following me.”
Roeder advises that others interested in pursuing design of any form stay present in the world of art and culture and be innovators of their time.
“It’s really important for people to see what else is going on. People need to be aware of the world and other designers,” Roeder said.
Roeder’s ability to combine sustainability with flair while simultaneously crafting a narrative through the pieces is a cornerstone of her many projects. Her works are one of many examples of the creative and innovative talents of the WashU student body. Roeder’s story is still unfolding, so make sure to keep her name on your fashion radar and clothing wishlists.
Along with Featherplight, Roeder’s seven other collections all capture a narrative of their own and are available for view on her website at www.maxineroeder.com.
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