The Rise Of The Cult Eco-Brand

‘It used to be that there weren’t any stylish brands waving the flag of sustainability. Stella McCartney was the one and only for so long,’ says fashion veteran and sustainability expert Julie Gilhart, a former fashion buyer who now works with brands including Coperni and Martine Rose in her role as chief development officer at Tomorrow.

Luckily for style lovers, that’s no longer the case. Cult Danish label Ganni helped pave the way for this shift, a journey that’s detailed in a new release, The Ganni Playbook, penned by co-founder Nicolaj Reffstrup and journalist Brooke Roberts-Islam.

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In the late 2010s, the Copenhagen-based brand made a splash with its quirky take on Scandi-cool, with viral items like its wrap dresses and cheeky slogan tees helping to propel it to international stardom. But, behind the scenes, it was deeply committed to responsible production, a pledge that eventually earned it B-Corp status in 2022.

Essentially, Ganni taught us that ethically made fashion at a more affordable price point could be cool, spearheading a paradigm shift in the fashion landscape. Peers including LA-based Reformation, Hungarian label Nanushka and London’s Mother of Pearl joined the throng, rising to become our go-to cult brands.

These labels are no longer outliers: enter the new guard of responsible-fashion pathfinders shaking up the way we shop.

The new cult eco-brands to know

Best for your weekend wardrobe: Ninety Percent

Founded by Para Hamilton and Shafiq Hassan, Ninety Percent donates 80% of its profits to charitable causes and 10% to its workers. The brand is committed to using high-quality, low-impact, vegan and organic materials.

Best for elevated workwear: Another Tomorrow

The New York-based label Another Tomorrow has become a standout in the quiet-luxury space – and a favourite in the ELLE office for its triple focus on human, animal and environmental welfare.

Best for going out: Marcia Wear

Bringing sex appeal to sustainable design, the French brand focuses on recycling fabrics to reduce waste, and makes all its jersey and upcycled pieces locally in ateliers across Paris and Marseille.

Best for tailoring: Laura Pitharas

Trained in tailoring at the London College of Fashion, Laura Pitharas describes her label as ‘menswear for womenswear’. It uses British suppliers, sources all wool fabrics directly from mills in Yorkshire and manufactures in London.

The pioneers

Ganni

This Scandi powerhouse is bringing sustainable fashion to the international market.

Mother of Pearl

The London-based womenswear label elevating everyday fashion responsibly.

Reformation

The premium brand known for its flirty dresses and tongue-in-cheek humour.

Nanushka

The Budapest-based brand introduced vegan-alternative leather to our wardrobes.

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