Mytheresa’s Jordan notes being able to visit Turkish designer Unit Benan, whom she feels is “entering a new chapter”. “The collection showcased meticulous attention to detail with luxurious fabrics, modern yet timeless cuts, and a focus on wardrobe-building pieces that epitomise understated luxury,” she says.
Emerging streetwear label PDF made its Milan debut with a high-energy show on Friday night. There were huge crowds outside, models audibly chanted backstage before the show, and before the finale, graffiti artists stormed the set and graffitied and tagged the white brick wall in the centre of the space. Then, designer Domenico Formichetti crowd-surfed, held up by the models and members of the audience. Italian footballer Moise Kean, Spanish DJ and model Sita Abellán, and NFL star Alvin Kamara walked the runway, while attendees included Corteiz founder Clint 419 along with Italian rappers and musicians Ghali, Tony Effe, Gaia and Pyrex.
London designer Saul Nash made his Milan debut on Sunday afternoon. The designer and choreographer is known for his dance-based shows, but held a more traditional runway show this season, so that attendees could “focus on the clothes”, he says. The collection featured pieces from Nash’s new Lululemon menswear collaboration, as the booming athleisure label takes aim at the menswear market. The collection includes gym bags, windbreakers, compression tops and leggings, with subtle plays on the Lululemon logo. “I’ve had a great response to the show, the collection reached a much wider audience than I expected, even in Asia,” Nash said post-show. “I would definitely show in Milan again, it feels like the right place for where my brand is at right now.” Leitch thinks so, too: “I think Saul Nash made a good job of his Milan debut, and I hope he can stick around for a few seasons to keep London represented.”
“The younger designers have been highlights for me this season,” Buchanan says, noting rising Italian talent Mordecai as one of his favourite shows, alongside Saul Nash.
“This week, as is often the case in complex moments, has called on both major and emerging brands to send out a strong message of passion for fashion,” CNMI’s Capasa says, reflecting on the season. “There is an urgent need to put creativity back at the centre, together with the authenticity that guarantees the rebirth of a true desire for fashion. Sometimes this has meant breaking some rules, putting creativity before marketing and working more freely to maintain the energy that makes this industry unique.”
Update 21/1/25: This story was updated to add description of the Emporio Armani and Giorgio Armani shows.
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