Fashion doesn’t have to be complicated. Sometimes it is simple, and gloriously so. The blue shirt — humble, commonplace, dare I say ordinary — falls into this category. Undoubtedly it is a whole lot more commonplace than it is an achingly chic fashion trend. At least that was the case until this season. For autumn 2024 the blue shirt is reborn. No longer the ubiquitous wardrobe addition it once was, a classic blue shirt has emerged as a signifier of someone who is (as you might say if you were in the supporting cast of Emily in Paris) à la mode. Certainly it suggests you’ve got more than a bit of a clue about what’s on point and what isn’t with blue shirts — which, crucially, should be classic and unfussy — the difference between a good outfit and a great one.
The blue shirt’s evolution has happened slowly and without fanfare. Indeed, you’d be forgiven for missing the fact that this once utilitarian wardrobe essential (worn mostly by schoolboys and anxious men at job interviews) has transformed into a fully fledged fashion hero for which the diehard luxury crowd will pay hundreds. As a starter for ten, witness Miu Miu’s poplin style — yours for £810 — not to mention the Prada alternative, which will set you back more than £1,000. Mrs Prada’s affection for the classic blue style — the latest chapter in her career-long obsession with reimagining utilitarian uniforms for a luxury consumer — has kickstarted a wave of appreciation. Called upon to add interest to a classic crewneck sweater and an oversized overcoat, even when all that’s visible of the shirt is a flash of crisp blue collar and set of cuffs, this fashion basic has gone from zero to hero.
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Casting my eyes around the best-dressed attendees at fashion week, I note that the blue shirt has replaced a white cotton T-shirt (“a nothing T-shirt”, as they say in fashion circles, to make the point that it is distinguishable by its plainness) as the crucial item du jour. The chicest shirt wearers style theirs in the same way they might a basic T-shirt — tucked into jeans with a jumper worn layered on top or wrapped round their shoulders. The result is a look that is relaxed in the way jeans and a white T-shirt are, but also smart and put together, giving the impression that the wearer might have had to reach for an iron.
Of course, today’s blue shirt wearers aren’t the first to appreciate the garment’s flattering properties. As I’m reminded when I question my fashion week friends about their enduring appeal, blue shirts have long been considered one of the most crowd-pleasing fashion items. Most famously by the photographer Lord Snowdon, who kept a stack of them in his studio because he considered the item to be the most photogenic. He shot his subjects in them — see Charles and Diana’s engagement picture from 1981 — whenever the opportunity presented itself.
“A blue shirt offers an everyday alternative to classic white that traverses casual and formal,” says Jason Hughes, the fashion director of Wallpaper magazine and a blue shirt aficionado (on his wedding day he wore a cornflower blue Prada one with a brown dull satin suit: “It was a less formal wedding mood”). “Tucked in or out, or worn layered over a white T-shirt with a pair of jeans, it has a casual cool about it,” he says. Nicky Yates, a stylist well versed in pulling together outfits for high-profile occasions, agrees: “The excellent thing about a blue shirt is that it suits every complexion. I always have a few in rotation. They’re understated but make you feel a bit more polished.”
On the matter of where to buy, the fashion week crowd are locked in elegant disagreement. Loewe, Toteme and Celine have all got great ones this season — indeed, you’ll be hard-pressed to find a luxury label that isn’t offering one in some form. But if you want real blue shirt perfection it’s all about the classic labels. Turnbull & Asser’s version (£150) is the holy grail (women adore the oversized shapes offered by the men’s outfitter), while With Nothing Underneath is also popular (shirts from £95).
Of course, you don’t need to break thebank to add a hard-working blue shirt to your wardrobe. Uniqlo has a good offering — look to the menswear section if you prefer yours oversized. Cos also has great ones — go for the “oversized tailored” style to wear on top of vests and T-shirts — while Jigsaw’s version (£69) is excellent for layering knitwear over. NB: iron dodgers may prefer this option.
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