The White Lotus and escapism’s enduring allure

There’s nothing quiet about the luxury on display in the fictional world of HBO’s “The White Lotus,” and that’s the whole point.

Now in its third season, the TV series is a showcase of privilege and excess, even as the show criticizes its own blatant displays of wealth. 

The fashion worn by guests at the show’s namesake hotel is, perhaps, the most obvious indicator of their lavish lifestyle. Costume designer Alex Bovaird has been nominated for two Emmy Awards as a result of her work, which blends vintage runway pieces, current must-have accessories and custom designer one-offs.

“We always have this little catchphrase on the show: ‘Nothing’s too much for The White Lotus!’” Bovaird said in a release announcing a 25-piece line of gilded, jungle-themed clothes she created in collaboration with H&M to coincide with Season 3. “So, I’m drawn more to the bold patterns and the more sumptuous, billowing pieces.”

The show’s style has become so popular that most of Bovaird’s H&M pieces sold out in under two weeks.

Boviard isn’t the only one to cash in on the show’s appeal. Other collaborations that have sprung up this year include an Abercrombie & Fitch line of separates, beach and resort-themed collections with both Bloomindale’s and Banana Republic, a skincare gift set from Kiehl’s, eyewear from Diff, and a now sold-out suitcase from Away. 

One of the show’s stars this season, actor Parker Posey, has signed on to be the face of the latest Gap ad campaign. In addition, designer Camilla Franks, whose work has appeared on previous seasons of the show, released a new ready-to-wear clothing and accessories collection as an official partnership with The White Lotus. 

Barbara E. Kahn, a professor of marketing at The Wharton School of the University of Pennsylvania, said the show’s fashion appeal comes from a combination of factors that blended together at the right time.

“It’s a perfect storm of a great commercial context,” Kahn said. “It’s a context that lends itself really well to all these brand collaborations.”

The diversity of characters and the fun clothing are certainly part of that equation, Kahn said, adding that the fashions are “the kinds of things that you would want to buy, to be seen in.”

But Kahn also emphasized the role the setting plays in making these clothes seem appealing.

“It is luxury travel, vacation, leisurewear, all of that,” Khan said. “It’s not like a pair of jeans. It’s stuff that you would go out to buy for a vacation or something like that. So it would be a trigger for purchase.”

According to Lyst Data Drops, the first two episodes of “The White Lotus” set off a surge of internet searches tied directly to the show’s signature fashions. In the weeks following the release of Season 3, which began Feb. 16, searches for crochet were up 11%, while searches for caftans were up 7% and searches for cut-out floral dresses rose 53%. 

Lyst also reported that brand names associated with the show also saw a bump, with searches for Loewe sunglasses up 18% and searches for fashion label Alémais rose 50%. 

In addition, searches for Ché swim shorts, which were worn by actor Patrick Schwarzenegger, shot up 305%, and the “Baller” style he wore in the current season’s first episode became the most-wanted item on the Lyst fashion shopping platform.

“The White Lotus effect on fashion is a fascinating topic, especially considering its contrast to past entertainment-driven collaborations like Barbie and the less successful Wicked tie-ins,” Keith A. Fraley, an assistant professor of fashion business management at the Fashion Institute of Technology, said in an email. 

“The show’s setting — sun-drenched, exclusive destinations — aligns with the growing consumer desire for effortless, vacation-ready styling. It’s not just about the clothing (i.e., caftans, breezy linens, relaxed tailoring); it’s about the lifestyle it represents — discreet affluence, curated leisure, and understated sophistication.”

Fraley also said that brands were embracing The White Lotus aesthetic for its nostalgic, timeless appeal, as opposed to chasing fleeting trends.

“In an era where consumers crave escape, fashion has become a gateway to aspirational experiences, much like past travel-driven trends,” Fraley said. “With major brands like H&M, Banana Republic, and Kiehl’s tapping in, its cultural influence is undeniable, though its longevity remains to be seen.”

The show’s impact on lifestyle consumption may also be helping brands and companies not officially affiliated with “The White Lotus” leverage some of its allure. 

Casual contemporary brand Chico’s recently released a collection of ponchos, kimonos and floaty dresses. Earlier this year, Anthropologie released its first collection of resortwear, called Celandine, which the company said was tied to an increased consumer interest in travel.

Another big part of The White Lotus aesthetic, Kahn said, is that the show’s style is easy for consumers to replicate in their everyday wardrobe. That has helped the TV series find larger fashion appeal, where other entertainment collaborations may have fallen short.

“I think it really does matter, the authenticity of the branding in the context,” Khan said. “[The movie “Wicked”] wasn’t an authentic context for everyday life. What’s really good about White Lotus is if you see something, and it looks great on the show, and you just really have to have it, this is something that makes sense in your life. Like if you’re traveling or something like that, or you want to get some new fashion. “Wicked” wasn’t as realistic in that context.”